Why Aussies Can't Get Enough of Bánh Mì: The Vietnamese Sandwich With a Rich History

A crunchy fresh baguette filled with briny pickled veggies, a layer of paté and mayonnaise, topped off with fresh coriander, chilies, and plenty of good-quality protein.

Here are the key components for the bánh mì, the sandwich that has emerged as one of Australia’s beloved choices for lunch.

Even though Vietnamese bakeries have been offering tasty and budget-friendly banh mi sandwiches to urbanites since the 1980s, the growing desire for genuine Asian tastes in the early 2000s led to an increased demand for this dish.

Currently, bánh mì stores are emerging throughout the nation, even reaching regional areas like Tamworth and Alice Springs.

Therefore, what led Australians to develop such a fascination with bánh mì?

French influence

The sandwich originated in Vietnam following the advent of French colonization, thanks to their distinctive bread.

Dr Anh Nguyen Austen explains, "The term 'bánh mì' specifically refers to the type of baguette used. Unlike traditional French baguettes, this one is softer and lighter, which can be attributed to differences in climate." ABC Radio National's Sunday Extra .

The French impact can be seen in the incorporation of pâté and cold meats, often referred to as charcuterie.

Thus, the simple bánh mì reflects Vietnam’s capacity to preserve its cultural identity even under colonial influence.

"As seen in cuisine, this blending serves as a mark or stamp of colonial influence or integration. The Vietnamese do not perceive the colonial presence as significantly threatening," explains Dr. Nguyen Austen.

We've become accustomed to thinking long-term, grappling with a past marked by dominance and colonialism; however, we approach this with silent perseverance and fortitude across generations.

Rise of Vietnamese businesses

In the 1980s, there was an increase in Vietnamese-owned small enterprises across Australia. According to Dr Nguyen Austen, these migrants were equipped with significant entrepreneurial skills.

Jasmine Dinh, who owns a business, hails from a family that moved to Bankstown in Sydney’s southwest during the 1970s. In 1988, they established a bánh mì shop there.

As per Ms. Dinh, the viewpoint in Vietnam is that being self-employed and running your own business is preferable to working under someone else.

Her store is located in an area with a strong Vietnamese community, and the majority of her customers were once predominantly from that background.

Nevertheless, she has noticed a change in her clientele over the past ten years.

There was a noticeable shift in cultural attitudes when we ate Vietnamese cuisine, specifically the bánh mì. It’s now embraced and adored by everybody.

Sandwich culture

The rapid ascent in popularity of the bánh mì can be attributed to sandwich culture.

Dr Austin Nguyen from Austen states that sandwiches have consistently been a favorite choice, especially among tradespeople, because of their cost-effectiveness and ease of use.

The affordability of bánh mì made it incredibly accessible for the working class… which helped facilitate the potential for integration.

Kelly Le, who owns a Vietnamese restaurant, mentions that nowadays, most of her patrons are tradespeople.

And when she launched her venture in Carrum Downs, Victoria, back in 2017, nobody from the local community had ever heard of bánh mì.

She says, "They asked, 'Can I get a pho roll?' They weren’t aware that pho is one type of dish and bánh mì is another."

At first, her clients requested burgers rather than bánh mì, however, once a factory employee sampled a bánh mì, news of these delectable crunchy rolls quickly circulated.

A single individual arrived and enjoyed some bánh mì, after which they returned to the factory where their friends soon joined them.

A pathway for cultural connectivity

In the initial stages of her enterprise, Ms Le frequently found herself being identified as Chinese by her Australian clientele.

She notes that once people get to know them and sample their wide array of Vietnamese cuisine, they become eager to explore various dishes.

Dr Nguyen Austen states that food serves as an excellent means to explore and value different cultures.

Research conducted by the Scanlon Institute on social cohesion reveals that… 71 percent of Australians, last study She states, "It feels welcoming toward immigrant cultures, even though the politics [and Australian media] may seem to portray otherwise."

Following their taste of her cuisine and gaining insights into Vietnamese culture, several of Ms Le's patrons have journeyed to Vietnam.

"They [customers] had a family trip and they came and asked us 'Where should we go?' or 'What area should we stay [in]?'"

When she opened her business, Ms Le was the only person who sold bánh mì, but has since seen at least five other local businesses start selling the sandwich.

Regional demand

The popularity of bánh mì has reached regional areas of Australia as well, offering country residents an alternative to the typical fish and chip shops.

Earlier this year, Van Thai Vien Nguyen launched his eatery in Alice Springs following his migration from Vietnam.

Upon noticing the scarcity of dining choices in the town and having a hankering for a bánh mì, Mr Nguyen opted to start a bánh mì store.

Even though the Vietnamese population was minimal, he understood that bánh mì would catch on.

Mr Nguyen says he is delighted to explain to them why a bánh mì is as it is, including the reasons for using pâté and similar ingredients.

Joseph Than has also witnessed the expansion of the region's color palette over time.

His family ran a bakery shop in north-west Newcastle when he was growing up, but they only sold salad rolls.

In 2022, when he relocated to Tamworth, his aim was to introduce something fresh to the community.

None of the local people recognized bánh mì, yet Mr. Than decided to take a chance and open his store.

Now we have supporters coming fromNarrabri, Gunnedah, Armidale, and even Newcastle. It’s truly wonderful how they all come up here to back me.

'Watercooler effect'

Waiting in line to purchase a bánh mì can also offer additional advantages. As Dr Nguyen Austen refers to it as the "water cooler effect."

"Individuals queue up for bánh mì, and this often leads to interactions nowadays, particularly since the pandemic," she explains.

We've lost that sense of community since transitioning to a hybrid work environment. This type of social bonding happens simply from being among people and waiting in lines at bakeries.

Jia-Yen Lee saw this impact firsthand when she and her partner, Thi Le, launched a bánh mì pop-up bar during the COVID-19 lockdown in Melbourne back in 2020.

They said, 'We need to bring some more vibrancy to the street.'

With a small hibachi grill at their front seat, they began cooking some meat.

Rows of eager customers lined up, turning the thoroughfare into a "festivity area," according to Ms. Lee.

It was a sense of fellowship during a period when interacting wasn’t encouraged.

The price of authenticity

Dr Austin Nguyen states that the affordability of bánh mì is integral to Vietnamese gastronomy.

The Vietnamese have consistently managed to create top-notch flavors at lower costs, which can be attributed to their cultural background shaped by poverty and colonial rule.

We pretty much do our best with what we have.

Although the bánh mì’s traditionally low price point for its premium quality contributes significantly to its popularity, this pricing strategy can pose challenges for contemporary Vietnamese eateries.

Jasmine Dinh is concerned that increasing her prices might push away her clients. The items she sells are priced between $7 and $9 each at present.

"As much as I believe certain locations warrant higher prices eventually, this has become such an entrenched part of our culture," explains Ms Dinh.

The other day I got a kebab from the food court for $14… When compared to bánh mì, almost all of its ingredients are made by hand.

Melbourne's bánh mì establishment Ca Com faced online backlash from patrons who were critical of sandwich prices ranging from $16 to $17.

The bar founders responded on social media, rejecting the notion that authenticity requires a bánh mì to come at a low cost.

They claimed this concept demoted the creativity of Asian cuisine and the effort of Asian chefs to a "secondary level."

"Bánh mì stores initially opened with the aim of catering to the community, particularly those from their own cultural background, and prices reflected that... Today, how we serve our community is by saying: 'This is what we think we should be valued at,' " explains the restaurant’s co-founder, Jia-Yen Lee.

Dr. Austin Nguyen suggests there’s an easy method to determine if the dish presented is a genuine bánh mì.

Any bánh mì that fails to make you feel completely satisfied, as though you could labor in the fields for hours, might not truly be considered a proper bánh mì.

Share :