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Awe-Inspiring Encounters with Magnificent Whale Sharks in Australia’s Ningaloo Reef

They are famously private, to such an extent that even today, scientists cannot definitively explain their mating habits and reproductive processes.

They usually prefer solitude, yet if you were fortunate enough to stumble upon a gathering of these creatures, they would be referred to as 'a constellation,' undoubtedly one of the most beautiful terms used collectively. They have been categorized as 'endangered' according to the International Union for Conservation of Nature Red List starting from 2016.

Whale sharks—and despite their intimidating size, these gentle giants pose absolutely no threat to people—are the biggest fishes globally, often reaching lengths of up to 15 meters and tipping the scales at approximately 18,500 kilograms when fully grown.

However, size doesn't always mean strength; it's believed that there are less than 200,000 whale sharks remaining due to changes in sea temperature and growing quantities of plastic waste in the oceans, along with targeted fishing for their fins, which can sell for tens of thousands of euros in Asian markets.

It’s easy to see why swimming alongside these majestic beings has become a ‘must-do’ item on many people’s bucket lists. Beyond their massive size and elusive nature, it’s hard not to be captivated by their stunning appearance—a breathtaking array of fine white dots and stripes adorning their expansive backs like an intricate splash paint artwork.

However, the attraction of interacting closely with these oceanic behemoths creates a profitable industry, which may lead to unscrupulous activities, thereby posing an additional risk to the species.

In the Philippines, where whale sharks can be readily spotted between November and May, certain locations like Oslob have faced criticism due to the proximity of interactions, which include hand-feeding that is promoted solely to enable tourists to get ideal underwater selfies.

An overhead shot shows travelers relaxing on a beach at Warroora Station, located near Ningaloo Reef. Image courtesy of Ningaloo Discovery Tours.

A shark of this magnitude requires quite a bit of sustenance to stay alive, particularly since their approximately 300 teeth aren't designed for chewing. Whale sharks are filter feeders; they swim with their mouths agape through the water to scoop up plankton along with tiny fish and shrimp.

It’s an enormous and labor-intensive task, so who can fault them for gravitating towards locations like Oslob, where shrimp is thrown into the sea and readily available? Should they be concerned about how this diet lacks diversity compared to what they would normally consume, or that becoming overly accustomed to human vessels might bring them closer to motorized propellers, potentially causing harm?

Is the intention for them to realize that loitering in one spot with the prospect of readily obtained meals might affect their usual migration patterns?

The situation at Australia's Ningaloo Reef, situated roughly 1,200 kilometers north of Perth, tells a completely different tale. A study released in the previous year lauds the whale shark tourism industry operating here for establishing top-tier practices. This assessment follows research utilizing biotelemetry equipment to gauge how tourism activities—such as swimming near them and boat traffic—affect these magnificent creatures, which frequent this area from March through August annually.

Due to strict local tourism measures and high adherence, it was concluded that the effects were negligible and practically nonexistent.

Although Ningaloo is the biggest fringing coral reef globally, allowing you to swim near the corals just a few strokes from the shore, exploring areas where whale sharks are found requires more time and travel.

Whale Shark Tour with Live Ningaloo, Ningaloo. Image: Ningaloo Discovery Tours

The boat journey provides plenty of opportunity for our eager guides to walk us through the procedures (unfortunately, it also offers some passengers extensive time to feel extremely queasy... if this affects you, taking seasickness medication is crucial). They also take the chance to impart some of the limited knowledge we have regarding these ocean giants.

For example, a female shark caught by fishers in Taiwan back in 1995 was discovered to be carrying more than 300 pups—each at varying developmental stages. Subsequent studies revealed that these offspring had only one father, suggesting that whale sharks reproduce just once. The females subsequently keep the sperm stored for later use whenever they choose to fertilize their eggs.

Despite this, very little information exists regarding the early growth stages of a whale shark; they are seldom spotted until reaching approximately 3-4 meters in length and several years of age.

As we venture further offshore, spotter planes—known locally as 'spottos'—are flying above us. From their high-up position, these spotters can detect the proximity of a whale shark near the surface and relay its whereabouts to the captain of our vessel.

Fully kitted up in our snorkelling gear, we wait for the signal from our guide before entering the water and finding ourselves face-to-face with an almost absurdly enormous, gaping mouth, which seems to be beatifically smiling. Its markings are both bold and delicate, an explosion of stars. You can quite see how, from above, a group would merit the term ‘constellation’.

Ningaloo Reef and Range adventure with Trek Ningaloo, Ningaloo. Image courtesy of Ningaloo Discovery Tours.

'Swimming with whale sharks' might be somewhat misleading in this case: To adhere to ethical guidelines, the interaction period is quite brief, and only up to 10 people are allowed near the shark simultaneously, ensuring they keep a respectful distance from both its head and tail.

Strobe photography and free-diving are not allowed either, along with feeding. Moreover, only 14 operators have been granted licenses to run whale shark tours within the Ningaloo Marine Park, an area covering 940 square miles.

Exmouth, the isolated town where you have to land to experience the marvels of the Ningaloo – which are plentiful even beyond the whale shark season – does not suffer from extensive developments that often mar numerous natural tourist spots.

The area has a sense of rugged openness that seems advantageous for both the land and its surrounding water bodies. Nonetheless, one cannot honestly claim that whale shark tourism carries an environmental halo. Consider the journey involving a flight from Europe to Perth, followed by another two hours flying internally to Exmouth, along with the fuel consumed by planes and boats used for spotting, and the overall carbon footprint quickly accumulates.

The absence of development implies that many lodging choices near Exmouth remain modest. However, there is an outlier offering both luxury and eco-friendliness.

Bird's-eye view of Coral Bay. Photo credit: Ningaloo Discovery Tours.

Sal Salis is artfully hidden within the sand dunes of Cape Range National Park, bordered by beach and reef on one side and the traditional lands of the Yinigurdira people on the other. Its efforts to protect the delicate environment have earned it several recognitions, such as an ECO Certification from Ecotourism Australia.

These endeavours cannot go unappreciated as you awake to stunning golden sunlight in a luxurious safari tent, yet they acquire an intensified significance when you venture into the nearby sea.

Personally speaking, my interactions with the whale sharks were brief; the water—and consequently the clarity—was disturbed by thrashing fins. Indeed, I felt somewhat crestfallen when my dappled marvel flashed what resembled a joker-like grin at me before vanishing into the abyss (these creatures can plunge down to over 2,000 meters). This left me without the chance for those sought-after 'me with...' underwater photos.

However, for me, the sense of letdown was an integral aspect of the encounter, equally important as witnessing a whale shark itself. We're conditioned to think that the world should comply with our desires. Add to cart. Click to purchase. Same-day delivery available. If I desire something, then I must possess it. While encountering whale sharks at Ningaloo Reef is indeed invaluable and might even mark a milestone on one’s bucket list for some, true wonder lies in marveling at these incredible beings—regardless of whether we manage to swim alongside them or not.

Escape Notes

  • Singapore Airlines offers flights from Dublin to Perth for €1,394 return in economy class. singaporeair.com
  • Qantas offers flights from Perth to Exmouth for as low as €311 round trip. qantas.com
  • A complete one-day whale shark excursion with Ningaloo Discovery is priced at AU$550/€311, which covers transportation, lunch, gear, and refreshments; visit ningaloodiscovery.com.au for more details.
  • The cost of staying in a luxurious tent at Sal Salis starts from AU$1179/€1131. salsalis.com.au

Sarah was hosted by Tourism Western Australia. westernaustralia.com

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